The textiles in this display are from Yogyakarta, Indonesia. All are garments. The patterns show the identity, status and power of the wearer. In 1927, Sultan Hamengkubuwana VIII of Yogyakarta issued a 37 page long proclamation on the use of batik patterns. The various colours and patterns come out of a long tradition, and bear the influence of Hinduism, Buddhism and Islam, as well as international trade contacts.
Today Indonesia has the world’s largest Muslim population. By the 16th century, the majority of the islands had adopted Islam as their religion. The Yogyakarta region is one of two sultanates on the island of Java that still retain some measure of autonomous political power. In the centre of Yogyakarta is the Kraton, the Sultan’s palace. Previously, the palace was, like Mecca, open only to Muslims.
Today it is a major tourist attraction, open to all, but it still retains a political role and is a centre for Javanese culture, hosting dance and theatre performances. The architecture and symbolism of the palace express an Islamic cosmology centring on the Kaaba, inspired by philosopher Ibn al-Arabi’s work The Meccan Illuminations.